Sunday, August 3, 2014

Capilano River RV Park - Vancouver, BC

The trip to Vancouver, BC was an adventure. From Anacortes to the border crossing was scenic and uneventful. The crossing was quick, even with all the questions about whether I owned any guns. Oddly, I wasn't asked if I had any guns onboard, which I didn't. The adventure really began when the GSP decided that the quickest way to the RV Park was via downtown Vancouver, through Stanley Park, and across the Lions Gate Bridge. Oh, and did I mention the realllllllllllllllllllllllly narrow tunnel it took us through. Laura's fingerprints are permanently embedded in the passenger seat armrests.

Our destination was the Capilano River RV Park in West Vancouver at one end of the Lions Gate Bridge. In 2001 we stayed at the RV Park in our tent trailer, so we knew it was centrally located to everything.

Located next to the bike path that runs along the shoreline.
We were in site #18
Having survived the Lions Gate Bridge crossing, the next challenge was getting through the off-ramp curve and maneuvered over to the left lane so we could turn towards the RV Park. Due to traffic, we got stuck in the right lane, which became a worsening situation when three lanes became two lanes and our lane was forced to turn into a very tight shopping mall parking lot designed for small cars. A hair-raising experience was had by all as I navigated the parking lot with thirty-five feet of extra wide motorhome and a tow. We were so glad to eventually reach our campsite and collapse.

Lions Gate Bridge with Stanley Park to the right.
Near the Capilano Pacific Trail.
Reverse sunset as the sun is reflected off the glass of downtown.

Capilano Suspension Bridge Park

With a mix of Native American arts, gardens, woodlands, and a pinch of Disney's Tom Sawyer Island, Capilano Suspension Bridge Park is an enchanted place to visit.

One of our favorite places.
That's the way I feel when I stand near Laura.
Lots of beautiful totems.
Originally built in 1889, Capilano Suspension Bridge stretches 450 feet across and 230 feet above the Capilano River.
Free Bear Hugs
We've visited the park before, but new this time was the Treetops Adventure. Providing a view of a thriving coastal rainforest in the mid-story of 1300-year-old old growth Douglas-firs. Treetops Adventure utilizes an innovative compression system using no bolts or nails in the trees to support the suspension bridges running from tree to tree.

The start of the Treetops Adventure.
The path leading to the Treetops Adventure.
Visitors venture from one magnificent Douglas fir tree to another on a series of elevated suspension bridges, some reaching as high as 100 feet above the forest floor.
It was great viewing the trees at this level.
One of the many water features in the park.
1300 year old Douglas Fir tree
The convection created by the trees made it very comfortable.
Another new feature of the park to us was the Cliffwalk. It follows a granite precipice along the Capilano River with a labyrinth-like series of narrow cantilevered bridges, stairs, and platforms.

Cliffwalk
Stay off of this one if you suffer vertigo.
The platform is suspended a couple hundred feet in the air
Amazing to see such large old growth trees near a city.

Stanley Park

Laura and I rode a tandem bicycle twice around Stanley Park on our honeymoon in 1986, so the place is both beautiful and magical to us.

At Stanley Park looking towards West Vancouver
The Teahouse Restaurant at Stanley Park.
Finding the car in parking lots is easy.
We did a lot of bike riding on the trip.  Here Laura is in Stanley Park.
Dale in 2014
Dale in 2001.  Wow!  No smartphones, Facebook, tablet PCs, Amazon Kindle, Google Maps, Gmail, Android, camera phones, iTunes, DVRs, YouTube,  Skype.  How did we ever manage?
Part of the bike and footpath that circles Stanley Park.
One of the beaches near Stanley Park.
Canada Place
We drove to Stanley Park, mounted our bikes, and then rode to the cruise ship terminal (Canada Place) that served as the Canadian Pavilion during the 1986 Worlds Fair.






Vancouver Rowing Club at Stanley Park.

Deep Cove

While I worked 6-8 hours each morning (I get up at 4 am), Laura would research places to visit once I was free. One such place was Deep Cove, BC.

Public access and kayak rentals.
The TV series Cedar Cove, which is supposed to be in Washington, is actually shot in Deep Cove, BC.
We paddled about for two hours.
I'm not sure who enjoys the kayaks more, Laura or I.
The kayaks have become a fixture on our RV trips. Originally purchased when we had our Catalina 30 sailboat, they've been a great way to explore destinations from the water. The stability is very good, they aren't heavy to carry around, and the construction makes them very low maintenance.

One Way Only

After a six-plus-mile ride along the shoreline, we somehow convinced ourselves to try out the Lions Gate Bridge. About two-hundred feet up the bridge Laura turns to me and says she's not sure. I point out that we just passed a One Way Only sign, so we're already committed. In low gear, the ride wasn't bad at all for either of us.

Rest stop at the first tower.
First milestone
As Laura led the way, I rode behind fretting about her falling off the bike and sliding under the guardrail. Add to that an unexpected sense of vertigo caused by looking through the guardrail to the water hundreds of feet below. Despite the fear factor, it was a cool ride. When we got to Stanley Park, they have a path that takes you under the bridge and puts you on the other side for the return trip without having to cross the busy road. No peddling was required for the return. The scariest part of the downhill run was the other cyclists that would wiz by at crazy speeds.


Sharing Stanley Park

SIGGRAPH 2014 coincided with our trip, so we played B&B to Madison and Sean when they came to Vancouver to attend the conference. With them sleeping on our sofa bed, I was reminded of the makeshift B&B Laura and I stayed at on our honeymoon. To make room for all of the visitors coming to the Worlds Fair, Vancouver created a service to make it easy for folks to rent out a room and get connected with visitors. Essentially a pre-Internet version of Airbnb. Laura and I stayed in a high-rise apartment while its single man/waiter tenant slept on the sofa in the living room during our stay. It sounds weird, but it worked out great. We either walked or took the bus to the fair each day of our visit.

Looking west
The view west.
Prospect Point, Stanley Park
A visit to the Teahouse is always high on our Vancouver, BC to do list. 
So amazing to get to share the Teahouse with Sean and Madison
Dale and Laura at the Teahouse Restaurant
Brockton Point Lighthouse, Stanley Park
Enjoying the setting sunset at Stanley Park


Royal Vancouver Yacht Club

One of the perks of being a yacht club member is reciprocal privileges at other clubs. We hadn't been Portland Yacht Club members on our previous visits to Vancouver so this would be our first call at RVYC.

Front of the RVYC
Underground parking entrance at the right and proceeding under the stairs.
Arriving for lunch
Fish and Chips
Laura's lunch
Lunch outside on the second story
One of the inside restaurants
Tastefully nautical
A grand feature of the club's architecture.
The ground-floor family restaurant.
Outdoor dining next to the family restaurant.
Overlooking the club's marina, and with a commanding view of the bay west of Stanley Park, lunch at the RVYC turned out to be a delightful experience. We'll definitely visit again in the future.

Granville Island

One of the last places we visited before heading back to the states, was Granville Island. Situated on the same waterway as the 1986 Worlds Fair overlooked, the destination is quite the tourist hangout with harbor tours, huge farmer's market, restaurants, galleries, and marinas.

Red-hulled water taxi
Walking about Granville Island

Farewell

We departed Canada on a misty gray morning. Our stay at Capilano River RV Park had provided us the central location we sought. Missing was the Wi-Fi the park had promised. While technically present, it was unreliable, slow, and mostly frustrating to trying to use for work. My normal fallback of using my phone wasn't an option because we were in Canada where phone data for USA-based customers was super expensive. I thought perhaps the performance issue was just the number of folks in the park, but I started measuring performance (event at 4 am) and it was all over the map.

Not fancy, but close to everything and especially the bike path
Celtic Safari tucked into its spot
You can tell the RV park was laid-out before slide-outs became popular with RVs.

Border Crossing -- Special Treatment

After passing through some sensors on the way to the border guard, US Customs had us pull into a holding area, leave the motorhome and wait in the Customs office where they would periodically have a different agent ask us questions. Meanwhile, US Customs drove away with our coach while we sat in the office wondering what was going on. After 1.5 hours an agent called us to the desk and said a gauge near the entrance door of the motorhome set off the US Customs' gamma radiation detectors. "Plan on getting this special treatment every time you return to the USA in the motorhome as long as that gauge is aboard. You're free to go, have a nice day". The gauge isn't even original to the coach and dates from the first half of the twentieth century. Installed by a previous owner, the gauge has markings that glow in the dark. Guess what they used back then to get them to glow in the dark? Radium, which is highly radioactive. It emits alpha, beta, and gamma radiation. Radium was still be used on watch and clock dials as late as the 1970s.

The Culprit

Despite the special treatment at the border, the experience made me feel good about the US Customs staff. They were always professional and polite. While it was obvious that every compartment of the motorhome had been inspected, the coach wasn't torn apart.

Clear of US Customs we were off to Bellevue, WA outside of Seattle.

Live well, Laugh often, Love much

Saturday, July 26, 2014

Fidalgo Bay RV Resort - Anacortes, WA

Laura and I were married in 1986, and for our honeymoon, we did a combination of tent camping out of my GMC S-15 pickup truck and staying at B&Bs as we traveled to attend the World's Fair in Vancouver, BC. For our first "big" RV trip, we decided to spend two weeks retracing some of those steps from twenty-eight years ago.

This is our "Grapes of Wrath" photo. Somewhere under all of that is our 2012 Honda Fit.
In keeping with the theme "Life is a Journey" and "Every New Adventure Teaches A Lesson", I managed to tow the Honda for five miles with the parking brake ON, before a considerate motorist pointed out at a stoplight that smoke was coming from the Honda's rear wheels. We've since had the Honda checked out, and fortunately no damage, but not the way I wanted to start out our trip.

The remaining 240-mile drive to Fidalgo Bay Resort in Anacortes, WA was uneventful. The Safari motorhome is comfortable to drive, has good blind spot visibility with the mirrors and the rear camera, and the 300 hp Caterpillar engine made towing a breeze with lots of power to spare (we were accelerating up hills).

Day One, watching the Herons fish in the tidelands.
Looking back at Fidalgo Bay Resort from the bike path that leads into Anacortes.
We stayed in site #40.
The resort is well maintained, and the sites have a solid base of gravel.
One advantage of site #40 was that we had a view of the bay from our front windows.

Anacortes Streets

In 1986, Anacortes to Laura and me was just a place to pick up the Washington State Ferry to Sidney, BC on Vancouver Island. Our love of Anacortes really formed in 1999 when we used the town as our gateway to the San Juan Islands and the Canadian Gulf Islands during our first trip up north with our Catalina 22 sailboat.

The Historic Downtown part of Anacortes (founded in 1891) has some of the best food in the region.
Some of the architecture flavor of Historic Downtown.
Anacortes has an amazing collection of really good restaurants with a diversity to tempt any palette. Besides dining, we enjoy strolling about window shopping. The paved bike trail from Fidalgo Bay Resort to Cap Sante Marina and the start of Historic Downtown is only 2.5 miles and nearly flat. As a result, bicycle rides to town and back were frequent.

Alive and well, Historic Downtown provides lots of shopping and eating out opportunities.
Too Funny.
Scenes like this are sprinkled about Anacortes.
I want this downspout.
More Historic Downtown Anacortes vibe.
Ice Cream treat.
Laura checking her FitBit to see how many steps she has collected for the day.

San Juan Island Day Trip

One aspect we like about Anacortes is its proximity to a Washington State Ferry terminal. Parking is close to the terminal if you choose to walk-on like we did. The trip from Anacortes to Friday Harbor is very scenic.

On the way to Friday Harbor, San Juan Island
Bringing our sailboat north in 1999 introduced us to many wonderful places. Roche Harbor and Resort is a mix of Disneyland and boating. From the pool and tennis courts to restaurant dining and the nightly retire the colors ceremony, Roche Harbor and its polite khaki-clad polo shirt sporting staff feel more east coast than the west coast.

We've always visited by boat, but since we were arriving by ferry this time, we rented a car in Friday Harbor and enjoyed the day sightseeing some of the areas we hadn't seen before. Our route took us counter-clockwise around the island.

Roche Harbor, San Juan Island
In 1906, President Theodore Roosevelt stayed at the Hotel De Haro.
Roche Harbor guest docks we've stayed many times.
A classic woody.  Love those old Chris Crafts
Nothing says small world than to be strolling down the docks and spotted two PYC members pulling in. You've got to love the Roche Harbor marina crew waiting to help tie up your boat.

Fellow Portland Yacht Club members Kelly and Jim Johnson.
Fellow Portland Yacht Club members Tammy and Michael House.
Lunch at Roche Harbor
Famous for the donuts they cook fresh every morning, we visited the Lime Kiln Cafe for lunch.
The car worked out great as it allowed us to see the varied shoreline of San Juan Island. We also encountered lots of people kayaking. Taking advantage of the gorgeous weather, we took lots of walks every time we saw another point of interest that captured our fancy.

Lime Kiln Point State Park, San Juan Island.
Cattle Point Lighthouse, San Juan Island.
We transited Cattle Pass in total fog from Deer Harbor, Orcas Island to Port Townsend on July 2, 2008. We were aboard our Bayliner 38, and there was no shore to be seen. Visibility was about 200 feet at best. We didn't emerge from the fog until we passed by the Point Wilson Lighthouse, Port Townsend.

Cattle Pass.
Preparing to board the ferry at Friday Harbor for the return trip to Anacortes.

Friday Harbor
Friday Harbor, San Juan Island
We had a wonderful day on San Juan Island
A parting view of Friday Harbor
The beauty of the San Juan Islands.  Well worth the trip even if you have to visit by ferry.


Anacortes Street Fair

We enjoy street fairs and Farmer's Markets because it is an opportunity to see locally produced arts, crafts, merchandise, and farm products. Historic Downtown was blocked off for the event, which stretched for over half a mile.

Laura finds the anchor for her next boat.
Street fair in Anacortes Historic Downtown.
It was a warm day and they were doing a brisk business.


Kayaking

Launching from the gravel beach at Fidalgo Bay Resort, we discovered that the barnacles are razor sharp when it comes to the plastic bottoms of our kayaks. This was the first time we'd had the kayaks in saltwater. We paddled 2.5 miles to Cap Sante Marina, explored the marina a bit, and then headed back. For nearly three-quarters of a mile, Laura was followed by a sea lion that at times would get within eight feet of the stern of her kayak. Craziest thing I ever saw.

Both boats launched and boarded without getting our feet wet.
We started out for a leisurely paddle, but the further we went the closer Cap Sante seemed to be.
Laura wears Dale out.

At Lands End

Washington Park near the Anacortes ferry terminal provides great sunsets. The densely forested city park features swimming, boating, camping, trails, and an excellent perimeter road that provides vehicle access to all.

Sunset at Washington Park, Anacortes
With our time in Anacortes coming to a close, we looked forward to Vancouver, BC. The motorhome had operated flawlessly and we were already discussing future trips we'd like to take. The WiFi connection at Fidalgo Bay Resort had supported me working on the vacation in the mornings, which really helped extend our vacation and kept my team moving forward on projects where my input was required. All-in-all a good start to our northwest trip.

Washington Park, Anacortes

Live well, Laugh often, Love much