September brought us to Newport for two weeks (September 12-27). It was our September 24, 2014 rendezvous at Beverly Beach State Park with my sister Monica Mack and Linda Smith that reintroduced us to the region. While the state park was beautiful, and access to the beach easy, there was no WiFi, and worse, no cellular. Laura and I wanted to come back to the area on a work/vacation, but we needed a dependable Internet connection so I could work. This trip allowed us more time to explore Newport, and visit various sights along the central Oregon coast.
Wi-Fi Access, Quality, and Performance
Online reviews warned of the spotty Wi-Fi, and that was our experience. Wi-Fi performance varied from so slow that you can't even browse the Internet to just OK. I wasn't able to work using the RV Park's Wi-Fi. Online reviews and my own experience has the staff telling guests that it's planned to get better, but it never seems to. The RV park, like many others, would be better off not advertising free Wi-Fi, and then let a commercial ISP offer paid Wi-Fi that was reliable. Fortunately for me, the Verizon 4G/LTE was a solid 3-4 bars with good data performance, so I spent my time using my phone as an access point.
Our Site
Located next to the marina, the RV park represents a centralized point from which to explore the region, the water, and the bike trails. Being one of the larger towns on the coast, Newport is able to address most shopping needs, and it has a collection of restaurants which had us wishing we had more time to stay. All roads and sites within the RV park are paved. Our site (#22), had us pulled in facing the boat trailer parking lot, but with a view of the mountains beyond. The odd thing about the layout of the RV park is that most sites are pull-ins for motorhomes, which means you are facing away from the marina and the iconic Newport Bridge. The exceptions are sites 6-12 and 27-42 which are back-in sites. The sites (27-36) overlooking the marina seem to have been designed for fifth-wheels because for a motorhome to pull in, all the utilities end up on the wrong side and you have to pass everything under the motorhome, not to mention your door is now facing the door of a fifth-wheel if they happen to be in the site next to you. Despite the odd layout, the RV park is very nice and well maintained.
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We stayed in site 22 |
South Jetty
Newport sits on the banks of the Yaquina River and faces the Pacific Ocean. A mile and a third west of our campsite put us at the south jetty protecting the entrance to Yaquina Bay. The access road was flat and made for a wonderful bike ride.
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On the access road to the south jetty looking back at the Newport Bridge |
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The entrance to Yaquina Bay between the north and south jetties |
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A view of the surf north of the north jetty |
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Looking south from the south jetty |
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Looking north as Laura stands on the beach south of the south jetty |
South Beach State Park
Just prior to the south jetty, you can follow a paved bike trail south that wanders through coastal pines and has various crossroads that lead you to the beach or to another state park. The trail is a mile long and ends at a parking lot associated with a day use area that is part of the South Beach State Park. As with most state parks, there is no WiFi, but there was OK cell service on Verizon. The state park is wonderful, with yurts, roomy places for large RVs, and cozy spots for tent camping.
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South Beach State Park |
Oregon Coast Aquarium - Newport
Less than 0.3 miles from camp was the Oregon Coast Aquarium. This was my first visit, and it was wonderful. I'd highly recommend it to anyone visiting the area.
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Jelly Fish |
The variety at the aquarium was very impressive. From the sea life to the beautifully landscaped grounds that emphasize native northwest coastal species, there were lots to see, do, and absorb while walking about the facility. And if one got tired or needed something to eat or drink, the aquarium had that covered too from ample seating if you wanted to sit down and people watch, to a full onsite food service.
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Laura is fascinated by tidepools |
Winchester Bay - Umpqua River
Seventy-six miles south of Newport is Winchester Bay, near Reedsport. It's located south of Florence, and north of Coos Bay. Apart from an interest to explore this stretch of the Oregon coast, we were also interested in seeing our former Bayliner 38, which we had sold just two weeks earlier.
Devils Churn
On the way to Winchester Bay, you pass Devils Churn (27 miles south of Newport). This natural feature is a narrow inlet cut into the basalt shoreline forming sea caves that eventually collapse and extend the inlet. From the beautiful day-use facility, the state has trails that wind you down to the water if one is so adventurous.
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Devils Churn |
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Laura and Dale at Devils Churn |
Cooks Chasm
Half a mile further south is Cooks Chasm. We parked and took the trail down to the beach and the basalt rocks. More accessible than Devil's Churn, Cooks Chasm lets you up close to the sea caves.
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The trail down to Cooks Chasm |
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Laura and the roots of a very large tree washed ashore at Cooks Chasm |
Winchester Bay and Bayliner 38
The purpose of visiting Winchester Bay was to see our former Bayliner 38. There was something very satisfying knowing the boat had been across the Columbia River Bar and down the Oregon coast without a hitch. In our seven years of ownership, we had had a blast. From cruising the San Juan Islands to living aboard it for two months while we vacationed in Ilwaco, WA, we cherished all of the experiences. During the time it was in our care, we had repaired, restored, renovated, and upgraded much of boat so that it was in better shape when we sold it, then it was when we purchased it.
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Our former 1987 Bayliner 38 |
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In boating, they say the two happiest days are when you buy the boat and when you sell it. I'd have to agree. |
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A happy former owner |
Umpqua Lighthouse
High on a bluff overlooking the Umpqua River is a lighthouse constructed in 1891.
Florence
Our trip back north to Newport had us stopping in Florence for some window shopping in old town and a bite to eat at ICM Seafood Restaurant. It was a gorgeous day, so we sat outside overlooking the Siuslaw River, and enjoyed a very nice meal.
Nye Beach
While I worked from the motorhome, Laura would go out and explore Newport on her own. One of her finds was a coffee shop in the neighborhood of Nye Beach than she visited several times.
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Some of the shops and restaurants at Nye Beach |
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Waiting on Laura as she checks out a shop |
Kayaks
Purchased when we had our Catalina 30 MkIII (2002-2008), our kayaks have traveled with us on the sailboat, the Bayliner 38, and now with the Safari motorhome. Only 40 lbs, and very stable, they have been terrific for exploring rivers, streams, and bays.
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Near the NOAA docks |
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Kayak dolly disassembled and stowed in the kayak |
After our Anacortes trip in April, I decided that a dolly would ease the process of transporting the kayaks. I searched the Internet looking for a DIY project that could be stowed aboard the kayaks. Made mostly from PVC pipe, the dollies have worked out great.
Yaquina Head Lighthouse
Situated just north of Newport is the Yaquina Head Lighthouse. Built in 1871, its architecture is similar to other Oregon coast lighthouses.
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Yaquina Head Lighthouse overlooking some of Laura's favorite tidepools |
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Near Yaquina Head Lighthouse is Agata Beach. Laura loves exploring the tidepools here. |
Newport's Historic Bayfront District
A historic fishing port, the Bayfront district still serves the needs of commercial fishermen while today also catering to recreational boaters and tourists to visit the various shops and restaurants.
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One of the famous Mo's Seafood Restaurants |
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A very small part of the commercial fishing fleet |
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Bayfront |
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Docks the port authority has set aside for non-human use. |
Heading Home
Our two weeks in Newport were wonderful. Despite the useless Wi-Fi, I was still able to work thanks to Verizon and my phone. We'd biked, kayaked, hiked, and explored countless shops.
We'd come to Newport via I-5, Salem, Hwy 22, Hwy 18, Otis, Lincoln City, and Hwy 101. For the return trip, we decided to select a route that kept us on I-5 longer. The result was Hwy 20, Corvallis, and I-5. Except for a short stretch of Hwy 20 between Chitwood and Eddyville, the road is fine for big RVs. The State of Oregon is in the process of building a bypass of the less desirable stretch of Hwy 20. On our next trip to Newport, we'll take the Corvallis route, even without the bypass being completed.
Live
well, Laugh
often, Love
much
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